Back in the SRV

As we descended into the Hanoi airport a young Vietnamese guy sitting next to us got up to jabber with his buddy sitting behind us. They were standing up and looking out the nearest windows, delighted by their return to Mother Nam. They were standing when the plane hit the runway. As we taxied to the gate they were opening the baggage compartments and getting out their bags. Did they think we were on a train or a bus? What was this strange disregard for airline safety and passenger protocol that we’ve all come to rely on? Where was their sense of order?

This odd behavior only indicated that we were truly back in Vietnam. And oddly still, I was glad to be back. Of course this erratic display during landing was not the first sign of our return to Vietnam. When we boarded the plane we headed for our pre-selected seats, one next to a window, only to find an opportunistic Vietnamese guy who had already situated himself there. No big deal, we let him stay. The next sign came in the form of an alarming message from the captain that someone who had checked bags onto the flight had not shown up at the gate. So we had to wait for their bags to be removed. The temperature inside the plane was a humid 100 degrees, just like Vietnam, and we were going to be late. Our window-seat thief proceeded to shut the blind and fall asleep for the rest of the flight.

It’s hard to define what it is I like about Vietnam just yet. But I was eager to return. There are so many things that can drive you crazy, and often do, but there’s so much satisfaction in comprehending, and working with a society so difficult, and any sense of accomplishing the slightest assimilation is so rewarding that you forget about the hardships. It’s almost like an exercise that makes your muscles burn, and tires you out. It’s painful and exhausting, but in the end so very rewarding.

Bina had returned to the states at the end of August to seek proper medical care for her back. She finally received an accurate diagnosis in Wooster Ohio: A herniated disk in her lower back. Then she had a regiment of exercise and therapy to do until it got better. I spent September alone in Hanoi but joined her at the end of the month. (Thus the giant gap in my blog.)

I went to New York in time to attend my friends Tim and Linda’s wedding. (See Anita's pics on Pinknest )Then I went to Ohio to be with Bina. I spent a few weeks living in Cleveland with my friend Carolyn and her partner Heide. They own and operate an awesome café - Cafe Limbo - and an antiques shop in Shaker Heights. They also have a beautiful house full of art and antiques. It felt like I was living in a museum, but far more comfortable. Here’s a picture of the grapes growing on a giant trellis outside their back door. It was nice to be able to step outside and reach up for a handful of grapes whenever I pleased.

I found work with a small crew of housepainters and painted a house. The work was good and the money was much needed. It felt good to be outside and meditate on the repetitious work, although sometimes the boss wanted us to work faster so one couldn’t stay “zoned-out” for too long. (You’ll never escape The Man!!)

I spent a lot of time with Bina while she was getting better and even attended Navratri (an Indian holiday that celebrates Goddesses) with her family and friends at her uncle’s house. Here’s a picture of me with some Goddesses.

We stopped back in New York for a couple of days on our way back to Vietnam and juiced up on all the things we knew we were going to miss for the next five-or-so months. We ate our favorite foods and drank good scotch and wine. I even provoked a few New York-style arguments just to enjoy the flow of the English language. (Cursing is so beautiful in its subtle tones.)

So it’s been a whirlwind month, and now we’re back in Hanoi for Halloween. Bina and I both love Halloween so it’s hard to be spending it in a place that doesn’t even know what it is, but that’s ok, it’s not so different from many of the other things we take for granted. Anyway, we may still put on masks and go door-to-door asking for candy. We just have to figure out how to say “Trick or Treat”.